DC to AC - Simple Converter
دائره تولد ما يصل إلى 100 واط من 12V حتى تستطيع أن تشغيل المعدات التي ليست حساسة لمستوى ووتيرة أو الموجي. وهذا يعني الإضاءة، بما في ذلك مصابيح الفلورسنت و
DC to AC in 15 Minutes
The simple converter circuit.الدائره بسيطه ويمكن استخدام اى نوع من المحولات التاليه ويمكن تجهيز الدائرهه للعمل فى 15 دقيقه
المكونات رخيصة الثمن ومتوفره
اتمنى ان اسمع ارآكم بعد التنفيذ.
************************.s. Power levelTransformer primaryTR1 = TR2Resistors R 1 Watt max12v + 12vBC547 or 2N22224K7 1 Watt max24v + 24vBC547 or 2N222210K 3 Watt max12v + 12vBFY51 or 2N30534K7 3 Watt max24v + 24vBFY51 or 2N305310K 10 Watt max12v + 12vTIP311K0 10 Watt max24v + 24vTIP312K2 30 Watt max12v + 12vTIP31330R 30 Watt max24v + 24vTIP31680R 30 Watt max48v + 48vTIP31680R 100 Watt max12v + 12v2N305547R 100 Watt max24v + 24v2N3055100R 100 Watt max48v + 48v2N3055220R
The output of this inverter will normally tolerate a short-circuit, but the output frequency will vary considerably, possibly from 35Hz with no load, to 150Hz with full load. But for loads with transformer input, and for lamps, this is quite acceptable.
The only other "foyble" is that the output waveform tends to have a leading spike of about 1000 volts. A 10nf 500v AC capacitor across the 220v winding will fix this.
Converter #1 above can be built in a few minutes. I proved it this weekend. I assembled the inverter, laid on a bit of wood, and ran nine 11-Watt ecconomy lamps. Since each lamp is "supposed" to be ********************alent to 50-Watts, I had the ********************alent of 450-Watts of lighting, and sustained it for two and a half hours. I did not use a heatsink on the transistors, but I did use a 12v computer fan to blow in the transistors, just in case.
A practical converter #1 implemented.
The circuit is quite simple to build. All you need is seven leads with corocodile clips (aligator clips) on each end, two transistors per 100-Watts (at 12v), two 330-Ohm resistors, and a 120-Watt transformer. I also used a pair of plastic beads so that when I twisted the ends of the resistors on the BASE connection, there was no danger of the wire touching the transistor case.
The leads should all be at least 3mm cross-sectional area and have an insulated crocodile clip. If there is any tendency for the leads to get warm, or even make a noise, then use two or more leads in parallel. Do not coil the leads. The important ones are RED and BLUE in the drawing. I did find that many of these jumper leads are somewhat cheap, and the connections are not always so good at the clip. Mine had a tendency to "buzz" in sympathy with the transformer oscillations. But it all went well and I fed the lamps.
Transistor connection details.
I fitted a short plastic tube over the two transistor leads. You could just poke the BASE and EMITTER wires through a bit of card, but I used the Ikea "PYSSLA" plastic play-things from the Childrens section. For half-a-dollar you get 18,000 of them. The 330 Ohm resistors are twisted tightly around the transistor legs so that it is good and secure.
I built the whole inverter using candle-light and absolutely NO tools for connecting, stripping, or making joints. It was all up-and-running in less than 15 minutes, but this did include a search of the workshop for "something" to insulate the transistor leads. The 330-Ohm resistors may be a bit too high. If oscillations stop at full load, then drop them to 100 Ohms, or even less. I tried 330 Ohms because smaller resistors burn. I eventually put another 330 Ohm in parallel with them on this version. If you have lower-gain transistros then you will need a lower value here.![]()
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